Yamaha FJR 1300 Resources

My FJR 1300 Resources

OK, this is my list of links for the Yamaha FJR 1300. When I stumble across something that’s useful to me or something I want to remember I’ll add a link here because I tend to forget stuff.

Forums & Sites:

FJRForum

FJR1300 Owners Association www.yamaha-fjr1300.com

Info: FJR1300 Info

Repair and Maintenance:

• FJRTech
• Mark Johnson: Steering Head Maintenance
• H. Mark Lewis’s Excellent Collection of How-To’s

Farkle Links

• Jastek Powerlet Products
• Motion Pro (Mercury Based) Carb Sync Tuner Instruction are Here in PDF form: motion_pro_carb_sync_inst.pdf

Notable FJR Forum Thread Links:

• Good discussion on power distribution

Touch-up Paint (2006)
– Chevy Indigo Blue or Toyota Indigo Ink from auto parts stores.

Parts (Factory Yamaha)

University Motors
1920 12th Ave
N Fargo, ND 58102
(701)235-6478
Ask for Gary. You probably won’t find NEW parts for less.

Thread on FJR Forum for parts sources : HERE Apparently U-Motors got stupid…

Gary from uMotors has moved on, his new contact info is:

GARYMCCOY@MONDAKMOTORSPORTS.COM 866-433-6635

Good Source for Plugs: NGK CR8EIX
Sparkplugssource

Yamaha FJR 1300 [2006] Miscelaneous Info

Specifications

Size:
87.8″ Overall length
29.5″ Overall width
57.1″ Overall height
31.5″ Seat height (Adjustable approx: 3/4″_
60.8″ Wheelbase
5.12″ Ground clearance
122.0″ Min. turning radius

Weight:
642# USA A model with oil & fuel, (644 CA model)
650# USA AE model with oil & fuel (653 CA model)

Maximum load:
467# USA A Model (465 CA model)
459# USA AE Model (456 CA model)

Fuel:
6.61 US Gal (1.45 US Gal reserve)
Unleaded only, 87 octane is fine.

Capacities:
Engine Oil: 5.18 Qt total, 4.02 Qt without cartridge, 4.23 Qt with cartridge change
Final Drive Oil: 0.21 Qt.

Oil Filters:
O.E.M. Oil cartridge filter: Denso 115010-5980, (Yamaha equiv. P/N 5JW-13440-00)
Purolator Pure One PL14612
Mobil-1 M1-108
Bosch 3300
Fram PH7317
Purolator Pure One PL14610
Mobil-1 M1-110
Bosch 3323
Walmart SuperTech ST7317

Cooling System:
Total Coolant System: 2.75 Qt, (0.69 Qt radiator capacity, 0.26 Qt reservois capacity)

Wheels/Tires:
Front wheel, Cast Aluminum: Rim size 17M/C × MT3.50
Wheel travel 5.31″; Radial wheel runout limit 0.04″; Lateral wheel runout limit 0.02″
Front Tire 120/70 ZR17M/C (58W) Tubeless
OEM: METZELER/Roadtec Z6G -OR- BRIDGESTONE/BT020F (Wear limit 0.04″)

Rear wheel, Cast Aluminum: Rim size 17M/C × MT5.50
Wheel travel 4.92″; Radial wheel runout limit 0.04″, Lateral wheel runout limit 0.02″
Rear Tire: 180/55 ZR17M/C (73W) Tubeless
OEM: METZELER/Roadtec Z6C -OR- BRIDGESTONE/BT020R (Wear limit 0.04″)

Tires recommended by others:
Avon AV45 ST 120/70ZR-17 Front * Avon AV46 ST 180/55ZR-17 Rear
Michelin Pilot Road 120/70ZR-17 Front & Michelin Pilot Road 180/55ZR-17 Rear

For a complete list of specs and mods check the Bin O Facts at FJRForum.

Herky Jerky Throttle fix:

• G2 Ergonomics This amounts to their 400Y cam and YZF throttle tube.

Service Manual (2006):

This is a LARGE PDF, right click and choose Save File As, and download it:

Yamaha Service Manual, FJR 2006

Service Bulletins:

• For Gen II (2006) 17 MPG Fuel Economy Gauge bug/Fix see this pdf: TB_17MPG_M2006-010.PDF
• ECU Recall 07’s and 08’s with altitude surging issues:
  Poor Engine Performance with Change in Altitude M2007-016
• Ignition Switch TSB
  TSB M2009-002R

Steering head nut torque and diagram:

Final Drive Related:

• SkooterG’s Final Drive postings cause it looks like I’m going to need this info very soon.
  • Final Drive 101 & Final Drive Splooge
• Radman’s final Drive repair

Decode your VIN:
Magic Vin decoder site

Tires I’ve used on this bike and my opinion of them:

• Bike came stock with Metzler Z6’s. I got approx 8,000 miles out of them, though it’s clear I pushed the rear a little too far. The front still looked good though. I thought they were plenty stick for the way I ride and wet weather performance was good. The only reason I didn’t go with them again was the fact that they have not center tread on the rear. They’ll look fine as mine did around 7k miles but you’ll turn around and cords will be showing. I don’t want to be 300+ miles from home and have that happen to me.
• Avon Storms. Everyone says these are ‘the shit’, but I did not like them. I thought their wet weather performance was marginal at best. They made wet tar strips feel just like ice, and that’s no good. They took a crap load of weight to balance. I got 6500 out of the first rear, and I should have replaced them both at that time. The front quickly deteriorated after that. While it looked OK handling went away, the front shimmy was enhanced. I posted photos here. The Storm front wore very lopsided. At 12k for the front, it is very, very done so I’m going to try the new Pilot Road 2’s.
• Pilot Road 2’s (currently mounted) In fact I’ve been through 3 sets now.  I don’t know if these are prone to flats, but the first two sets were replaced prematurely (before end of life) for punctures.  Punctures that were plugged and ridden on for 5000 miles the first time, but not so lucky the second time.  There were actually two holes from a construction staple.  I couldn’t get the plugs to work after 1500 or so miles and was forced to replace the rear at about 8k while on a trip.  I replaced the front shortly thereafter.   I like these, they last, though the handling seems to go away some after about 5k miles but they are good for another 5k (so that’s right 10k on a rear).
• Pirelli Angels
  I wanted to like these tires I really did.  I primarily switched to these because of perceived puncture problems with the PR2s.  I loved the PR2’s but had a bad run with them and flats.  Coincidence?  Perhaps, but I thought I’d try something new.   I loved the way the Angels handled, but mileage suffered.  During the 2011 MD2020 I started that rally on a pair of angels that had about 4.5k miles on them.  Surely I could get another 2k they looked great at the start.  But that turned out not to be the case. (read here).  They went away quickly, much too quickly.  Similarly to the Metzlers.  I did end up getting 8k out of them, though the last 500 miles were on a salvaged PR2 rear.  They were apparently way past done with 5.5k on them.
• RoadSmarts After the Pirelli debacle, I was all ready to order up another set of Pilot Roads.  Then I got a call from a buddy who had sold his bike and had a brand new set of RoadSmarts that he didn’t need.  I got a deal.  $200 for the set.  First of all these were the hardest tires I have ever mounted.  Very stiff sidewalls.  Secondly, the worst handling, tires I’ve ever had.  I never gained confidence in them.  I tried different pressures (starting with my normal pressure of max-2) and working down to as low as 38lbs,  still felt like I was riding on concrete Fred Flinstone tires.   I have roughly 4k on the set and the front is way beyond done.  No cords but badly cupped and ill handling.  Looks like it’s back to PR2s maybe try a set of PR3’s.  Ok more info on the RoadSmarts.  I got a whopping 6300 miles out of them.  The back still looked OK, but the front was completely toast.  Worse than a 10,000 mile PR2.   The back well, I was about to run a 2500+ mile rally so it had to go too.   Never again, stiffest tires ever to mount and even worse to dismount.  Horrible Dunlop, horrible.
• Pilot Road 3’s  After the previous experience I’m sure bicycle tires would have felt good.  But after putting 3,000 miles on the PR3’s, they are simply the nicest, quietest, best handling tire I’ve had on the bike.   Smooth on the highway, and sticky in the twisties.   I just spent 2200 miles this weekend riding the MD2020 with them (2012) edition and they were awesome.   I will stick with these for a while and will order another set soon just so they’ll be here when I need them.

Note to self: 04/08/2008, spoke with Jim at Shipps Yamaha.

He quoted $280 for a valve check and adjust if necessary (included in the $280 price). We talked about the ECU Recall and the top box base plate recall (which I don’t need). I also asked about the gauge cluster recall but wanted my mileage restored. He wasn’t sure if or how they’d do that.

Ships was A-OK, in my book.  I did the Valve check myself, but they gladly let me install the FJR ignition switch on my own which was sweet.

I did this the same time I replaced the crappy plastic encased head bearings with super sweet tapered bearings.  This by far was the best $35 I’ve spent on the bike.  Decel head shake is completely gone.

Battery

The OEM battery for the ’07 is a GT14B-4 battery. The manufacturer is GS. The Yamaha part number is 5EA-82100-11-00.

Bike Effects sells the WestCo Battery, but I think I want an Odyssey (Note they don’t make an Odyssey that fits the FJR at this time.  They have a battery that you can allegedly ‘trim’ the plastic fins off of it to make it fit but I decided to pass on that and went with a WestCo.)

Suspension

My new to me Penske 8987 ‘Triple Clicker

Manual

SPIDER Problem

So there is a recall for 2006/2007’s for wire harness spider grounding things burning up.    I’ve watched the forums and crossed my fingers it wouldn’t happen to me.  I had a Brodie harness in my hands twice but gave it up to Iron Butt Rally riders who needed it in 2009 and 2011 and never got it installed.   Well during the 2012 MD2020, I lost my windshield up/down, headlights and turn signals.    As well as had intermittent starting.   A fellow rider/mechanic said that the spider that’s bad is up on the sub-harness under the headlights, and not one covered by the recall.    So I’m tearing into it now.  (No, sorry Yamaha, there are no trustworthy dealers in my area). I cannot let them take the bike to the frame to replace a harness.  There have already been too many stories of shit not put back together right.    I’ll inspect my harness, if it’s good install the Brodie fix and Repair my burnt up spider and leave it at that.   The next owner if he’s more trusting can get both the dash recall and the wire harness recall done.

OK after tearing into it tonight I found the S6 Spider burnt pretty badly:

I installed the Brodie Harness which ties S1, S3, S4, S6, S7 and S8 back to the battery.   I clipped the connector, and regrounded it using this harness and all functionality has been restored.

My NHTSA complaint: (ODI Number) is: 10460091

The more I think about this the more it pisses me off, had I lost headlights at night, in WV at speed, I might not be typing this.

More importantly the current recall doesn’t even address this Spider connector.

Pfft.

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Charging System Woes (5/2013)

Yippee, my latest conundrum with the FJR.  It appears my charging system has gone to hell.  During the 2013 MD2020 I depleted my battery using just my heated gear.  Voltages went to pot.  I was able to bump start it and continue on, freezing my arse off.

Parts Ordered:  Replacement RR/Stator for a 2007, but initial indications point to this too being a wiring/connector problem.

So after some discussion on FJRForum.com, my issue/symptom wasn’t all that different than some other users.    I mounted a Daytel voltage meter on my bike back in 2007.  Back then highway voltage was 13.8/13.9  I’ve never seen 14-14.1v at the battery ever.

Things have deteriorated over time which led to me depleting my battery during the  MD2020 with my heated gear, which shouldn’t be possible if things are as they should.

After some troubleshooting there’s some voltage loss between the Regulator/Rectifier.

At idle I’d measure 13.92v at the R/R but only 13.44 at the battery.   Well if 13.2v is the break even number you can see it won’t take much to put you under.

Further testing ruled out a bad R/R and/or a bad Stator.

You have to test this stuff in place under a load which means back-probing the connectors with paperclips or something.

Unplugged you should have 1.2-2.0 ohms resistance between any of the 2 connections. While running 24v AC at idle, up to 90+ volts AC between any of the 3 legs.  Mine tested good.

So it appears there’s something else causing the voltage loss in the harness.   The fix is to add (YABPH) Yet another bypass harness, and go straight from the R/R to the battery.    I did that and things are back to where they belong.    I ordered my harness from Jack at: http://roadstercycle.com/

I ran my 6′ bypass harness from the RR, between the tool tray and the airbox under the tank up the right side of the bike to the battery.   You’ll need 6 feet to make that happen.   If you want to go up and around through the nose you’ll need 9 feet of cable.    Just Call/email Jack and he’ll put it together.

I also have a spare RR and a good stator from an 07.  If you get in a pinch and need one short notice for a lot less than new, just let me know.

I now have 14.0 – 14.1 v at idle, which is where it should be (again).